The garden is happily being water via our fancy schmancy drip water system. Yes, right now. We've used some variation of the drip system to water the garden for about 10 years now. The drip system is fantastic for so many reasons. One is that is saves water. We only water what we want when we want and don't lose much to evaporation. Another reason I love the drip system is that it can water a whole section of the garden at once without making a mess of the walkways. Plus it makes watering easy. I don't have to move hoses or sprinklers. Just turn it on and off. Ahhhh. And not that I would ever do this, but if your town has water time regulations, nobody can tell that you forgot to turn off your drip system after 10:00 am so your neighbors won't report you to the city for watering outside of the water hours. Yeah, that's never happened here.
This year we built the system so that it (hopefully) can be re-used "as is" in years to come and not have to be re-designed every year. I don't think we're moving any time soon, so we won't have to re-design our garden area and when we designed the water system this year we made it easy to take apart and easy to use parts separate from each other as well. Here's how it works.
First, we spent a lot of time in Dripworks' catalog. We also spent a lot of time figuring out how we want the pieces to come apart for winter storage and how to hook it all up so we have the versatility we wanted. We have 4 long garden beds plus an area for corn, an area for potatoes, raspberries, fruit trees, and an area for other berries that haven't been planted yet. Each area needed its own water system section so we could water only the beds, only the squash, only the corn, only the fruit trees, only the potatoes, or any combination of them depending on what was planted and what needed water. Crazy, I know, but it works so much better not to water the garden areas where nothing is planted.
So I drew a picture of each area and used the catalog to determine the parts we would need. This is the garden bed area drawing. Ugh. Blogger uploaded it sideways. You can get the idea anyway.
I totaled up the parts. There are definitely more parts involved when you want it all to break apart easily and want to be able to turn each area on and off independently. Then I ordered most of the parts from Dripworks and picked up the 1/2" tubing at Walmart garden center. When all the parts arrived, I pulled them out to separate them into sections to match my drawings and I had missed a few parts, so I put in another order.
Here's what we ended up with:
3/4 inch PVC for the main framework (hubby had some of this from some other project)
Valves for the PVC to turn main sections on and off
1/2 inch black tubing (funny pipe) for running water lines down to the squash area and transitioning from the PVC to the dripline in the bed and berry areas.
1/4 inch drip line down the beds, potatoes, and berry areas plus around the trees.
Connectors, joiners, and caps for the 1/4 inch drip line
T-tape for the corn rows (could have used the dripline here also, but we had T-tape left from other years, so we used it for the corn)
Valves and connectors for the 1/2 inch tubing and T tape
1/4 inch water line (not dripline) to get water to the squash hills
Water emitters at the end of the squash lines.
PVC to hose and hose to 1/2 inch tubing fittings so we can take the whole thing apart in manageable chunks for storage at the end of the gardening season.
Here's a few pictures so you can kind of see how it is put together. The start of the first bed showing the PVC leading to the 1/2 inch black pipe with driplines inserted in it and running down the bed. We did 4 rows of dripline per bed, essentially soaking the entire bed since we planted the entire bed. We want each bed lines to be able to be removed from the PVC for storage, so there are hose fittings between the PVC and the 1/2 inch black pipe on each bed. We also put a valve at each bed so we could start watering when the early crops were planted without watering all four beds.
Another view of the connection from PVC to the bed.
Where we hook the hose to the PVC to water the beds. Eventually we'll have a full main PVC line that connects all the sections, but for now we're just screwing the hose onto each section as we want to water it. Plus another bed line branching off the PVC "bed section" mainline.
1/4 inch drip line in the carrots.
T tape connectors on the corn section of the PVC. We didn't put a valve on each row of corn. Maybe we will in the future, but this year we planted all the corn at the same time (late).
T tape. This is less flexible than the dripline. It comes flat and not tubular, but it rounds out as it fills with water. It drips out slits on the top of the tape.
1/2 inch tubing runs down the middle of the squash area and 1/4 inch tubing runs to each squash hill.
The ends of the 1/4 inch line at the squash hill has an emitter. There are lots of different emitters. I would not get this kind again, but we had extras of it, so we're using it. It is supposed to be variable, but is really difficult to set them all similarly, so some squash get more water than others and then when you're adjusting the flow it's real easy to screw the green part all the way off which isn't a real big deal, just kind of a hassle.
You'll also want a filter and a pressure regulator, but I'm not an expert on this, so contact the Dripworks people. They're super friendly and helpful. We've called them plenty through the years. You might have an irrigation store near you you could also get the parts and information from. We don't, so we use the magic of the internet and UPS to order what we need.
As a final note, you may be thinking about using soaker hose from the store, but don't. It is relatively inexpensive, but doesn't drip at a constant rate through the length of the hose and is prone to blowouts. Plus it's not easy to get the hose the right length for your rows. Cutting 1/4 inch dripline and putting a plug at the end is easy. Putting a fitting and cap on your soaker hose and having a 3 foot piece left over is a pain in the neck. It might work well the first year, but after that soaker hose is lots of trouble. Just don't do it. We have and it's not worth it.
There you have it. The basics on the drip system. Each garden area is going to be a little different and it may take you a bit of figuring and drawing to determine the parts you want for your area, but I can't say how much I love the drip system in my garden.
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Super Easy Currant Jelly
Hey, check out my post over at Utah Preppers for super easy, super yummy currant jelly. Perfect for all those currants and you don't need powdered pectin or exact measurements of currant juice. Excellent on homemade bread. :)
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jam/jelly
Friday, July 16, 2010
A Thought for All You Canners of Garden Produce
When I'm canning I usually have a good chuckle over a fond memory of a friend of ours who, after receiving some homemade jam from us said: "My mom used to can a lot when I was growing up. I never could understand why she did it during the hottest part of the summer though."
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canning
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Welcome Our New Advertiser: EDC Depot
What kind of gear do you have with you every day? EDC stands for "Every Day Carry", and EDC Depot is full of survival items you could carry with you every day. They specialize in those items that are carry size, including knives, multi-purpose tools, water purification, flashlights, first aid, and the Maxpedition bags to carry it all (in case you don't want to put it in your pocket or purse). Plus they offer a free gift with every purchase, how fun is that? And if you use the promo code on the ad, you'll also get 5% off! So when you're looking to stock up on those items you want to have with you regularly, check out EDC Depot. And let them know I sent you. :)
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advertising
Welcome Our New Advertiser: CampingSurvival.com
Here's a welcome to our new advertiser CampingSurvival.com! If the name sounds familiar, it's because they have sponsored some awesome giveaways on this here blog in the past. If you're looking for some great preparedness products, head on over to their site and don't forget to sign up for their email newsletter and let them know I sent you :) And in case you're wondering what paracord is, it is the "duct tape of the rope world" and can be made into handy survival bracelets like this so you've always got some around when you need it. Useful stuff, and now you know the best place to pick some up. Maybe we'll do some paracord projects on the blog. :)
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advertising
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Sew Like a Pro Tip: Don't Cut Your Patterns!
Here's a little known sewing tip that will save you tons of hassle. Don't cut your patterns.
You know how you open up a pattern, especially a multi-sized one, and there are a bunch of different sizes all drawn on top of each other? Don't cut out the one you want to use. Trace it instead. I use a roll of white kraft paper I got from some paper store online to copy my patterns. If you live near civilization you could get some butcher paper from the local school supply store or paper store. Maybe even a butcher shop would sell you some. For small patterns I've traced the pattern pieces onto regular old white printer paper (sometimes I needed to tape two or more pieces of paper together). Just lay your white paper on top of your pattern and it should be thin enough to see the pattern lines through it. I've also used carbon paper under the pattern and traced onto tan kraft paper. This was definitely more complicated--just go with the white paper. I've also heard of people using non-woven interfacing for pattern tracing. Very sturdy, a bit more expensive.
I usually just lay it all out on the floor. If I had a fancy cutting table (like in my dreams) I'd lay it out there. I've taped some to the window so I could use the light to see through and trace (must have been using a thicker tracing paper on those).
You can kind of see in the picture the original pattern is on the right, under the kraft paper. A straightedge is usually handy when you're tracing patterns, and if you're using a paper roll you'll want something to keep the paper from rolling up while you're tracing.
Don't forget to mark what the piece is, how many to cut, grainlines, darts, and any other marks on the pattern piece.
Tracing your pattern serves a couple of purposes. First, it makes it so you can adjust your pattern pieces to fit you without messing up the original pattern. This is nice if you ever want to use that pattern to make something for someone else that's not quite your shape. I also don't feel bad at all cutting chunks out of my copies, but I would about doing it to the original pattern.
Tracing your pattern also usually makes it so you're working with a more durable pattern. Those tissue paper pattern pieces from patterns like Butterick and McCalls are especially obnoxious to work with.
And lastly, just because your kid is a size 4 now doesn't mean he'll always be a size 4! Tracing your pattern preserves the other sizes the pattern offers so you can sew more another time. Here's a pattern I got from my mom after she made a shirt for son when he was 4.
Of course she cut the pattern, crazy lady. But guess what? He's not 4 anymore. I've used this same pattern in a size 6 and 8/10 and today I traced off a size 12. Imagine what that pattern would look like if I tried to actually cut the pattern each time I wanted to make a different size! Yipes! I'd probably end up buying another pattern. So if you get a pattern that has been cut by your crazy mother, don't dismay--there's always tape.
Tape the cut out pieces back into the pattern and trace off the size you want to use. There's your first official sewing tip from me--Don't cut your patterns. It really is worth the time to trace them. :)
You know how you open up a pattern, especially a multi-sized one, and there are a bunch of different sizes all drawn on top of each other? Don't cut out the one you want to use. Trace it instead. I use a roll of white kraft paper I got from some paper store online to copy my patterns. If you live near civilization you could get some butcher paper from the local school supply store or paper store. Maybe even a butcher shop would sell you some. For small patterns I've traced the pattern pieces onto regular old white printer paper (sometimes I needed to tape two or more pieces of paper together). Just lay your white paper on top of your pattern and it should be thin enough to see the pattern lines through it. I've also used carbon paper under the pattern and traced onto tan kraft paper. This was definitely more complicated--just go with the white paper. I've also heard of people using non-woven interfacing for pattern tracing. Very sturdy, a bit more expensive.
I usually just lay it all out on the floor. If I had a fancy cutting table (like in my dreams) I'd lay it out there. I've taped some to the window so I could use the light to see through and trace (must have been using a thicker tracing paper on those).
You can kind of see in the picture the original pattern is on the right, under the kraft paper. A straightedge is usually handy when you're tracing patterns, and if you're using a paper roll you'll want something to keep the paper from rolling up while you're tracing.
Don't forget to mark what the piece is, how many to cut, grainlines, darts, and any other marks on the pattern piece.
Tracing your pattern serves a couple of purposes. First, it makes it so you can adjust your pattern pieces to fit you without messing up the original pattern. This is nice if you ever want to use that pattern to make something for someone else that's not quite your shape. I also don't feel bad at all cutting chunks out of my copies, but I would about doing it to the original pattern.
Tracing your pattern also usually makes it so you're working with a more durable pattern. Those tissue paper pattern pieces from patterns like Butterick and McCalls are especially obnoxious to work with.
And lastly, just because your kid is a size 4 now doesn't mean he'll always be a size 4! Tracing your pattern preserves the other sizes the pattern offers so you can sew more another time. Here's a pattern I got from my mom after she made a shirt for son when he was 4.
Of course she cut the pattern, crazy lady. But guess what? He's not 4 anymore. I've used this same pattern in a size 6 and 8/10 and today I traced off a size 12. Imagine what that pattern would look like if I tried to actually cut the pattern each time I wanted to make a different size! Yipes! I'd probably end up buying another pattern. So if you get a pattern that has been cut by your crazy mother, don't dismay--there's always tape.
Tape the cut out pieces back into the pattern and trace off the size you want to use. There's your first official sewing tip from me--Don't cut your patterns. It really is worth the time to trace them. :)
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sewing
Friday, July 9, 2010
Shoes
What kind of shoes do you wear? Classy? Comfortable? Worn out? Crazy cute but highly uncomfortable?
If your car broke down and you had to hike 5 miles, could you do it in the shoes you have on? What about the shoes you wear to work? To church? If not, it would be a good idea to carry a spare pair in your car or in your ginormous cute handbag.
How many pairs of shoes do you have? I'm talking the practical ones here. Cute uncomfortable ones don't count. Do you have enough good sturdy shoes to last a couple of years if you couldn't buy another pair?
What about your kids? What about your kids next year? You know those pioneer stories about the kids with no shoes. I'm not that tough, plus it snows here and I'd rather not have to wrap my kids' feet in rags to protect them. I don't know about you, but I'm not too handy at making shoes either. I've made a couple pair of moccasins, but the mid weight leather soles sure don't last long if you're walking around on gravel or cement much. Yes, experience speaking. If you've got a good pair with buffalo hide bottoms they'll last longer, but they're also a lot more difficult to sew.
It's pretty easy to stock up on shoes and boots from the goodwill stores, yard sales, or online places like ebay in sizes you or your kids will need in the future. Stash them in a box somewhere. They don't have to be in perfect shape, although I would look for quality shoes that will last at least one season--more if you have more than one kid that might get to that size shoe. Leather is generally more durable than "all man made materials". Style is not all too important as long as they are built well and your kid could hike around the woods in them. If your kids are picky they may never wear them. But if you need them, you'll all have shoes.
And no, the shoes in the picture are not from my closet. I don't own a pair of shoes I couldn't walk a long way in--even my sandals and dress shoes. How are your shoes?
If your car broke down and you had to hike 5 miles, could you do it in the shoes you have on? What about the shoes you wear to work? To church? If not, it would be a good idea to carry a spare pair in your car or in your ginormous cute handbag.
How many pairs of shoes do you have? I'm talking the practical ones here. Cute uncomfortable ones don't count. Do you have enough good sturdy shoes to last a couple of years if you couldn't buy another pair?
What about your kids? What about your kids next year? You know those pioneer stories about the kids with no shoes. I'm not that tough, plus it snows here and I'd rather not have to wrap my kids' feet in rags to protect them. I don't know about you, but I'm not too handy at making shoes either. I've made a couple pair of moccasins, but the mid weight leather soles sure don't last long if you're walking around on gravel or cement much. Yes, experience speaking. If you've got a good pair with buffalo hide bottoms they'll last longer, but they're also a lot more difficult to sew.
It's pretty easy to stock up on shoes and boots from the goodwill stores, yard sales, or online places like ebay in sizes you or your kids will need in the future. Stash them in a box somewhere. They don't have to be in perfect shape, although I would look for quality shoes that will last at least one season--more if you have more than one kid that might get to that size shoe. Leather is generally more durable than "all man made materials". Style is not all too important as long as they are built well and your kid could hike around the woods in them. If your kids are picky they may never wear them. But if you need them, you'll all have shoes.
And no, the shoes in the picture are not from my closet. I don't own a pair of shoes I couldn't walk a long way in--even my sandals and dress shoes. How are your shoes?
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gear
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Some Thoughts on Learning to Sew
Learning basic sewing skills is never a bad thing. Knowing how to patch a hole in a pair of pants or stitch up a tear in a sleeve are valuable skills, especially if there comes a time when clothes are not so plentiful and we need to repair what we have when they start showing some wear. I'm kind of a sewing nut. It is very therapeutic. I enjoy the creation process. I do not enjoy picking seams that were sewn wrong, but that's another story. I enjoy sewing.
I pick up fabric at fabric store sales, online, and from thrift stores and yard sales. Because we do reenacting and make clothes for that, I try to stick to stocking fabric made from natural fibers--cotton, linen, silk, wool. I stay away from polyester, rayon, etc. One reason to stick to natural fibers besides being able to use them for our reenactment sewing is that if you're cooking over a fire and your clothes catch a spark, they won't melt and stick to your skin. If you're a welder, you know what I'm talking about.
Sewing would be an invaluable skill in a TEOTWAWKI situation. But it also could come in handy now. Because I can sew, I've been able to make my own curtains, cute pillowcases, and custom fit clothes for reenacting. I repair sweet husband's work jeans so he can keep working in them and snug up hand-me-down pants to fit my skinny kids. I've made my own maternity Wrangler jeans, Halloween costumes, and cute, modest skirts and dresses for my girls. Our sewing machine has paid for itself many times over.
Right now, it's generally cheaper and easier to just buy clothes from the store rather than buy fabric and make your own clothes. That is, unless you're looking for something in a particular color or style that isn't "in" this season. If you want to learn to sew, I'd suggest starting with a small project with straight edges--curtains or a pillowcase. Maybe a hotpad. If you don't have access to a sewing machine or want some hand stitching practice, hand stitch a patch on some old jeans or some embellishment on a handbag or jacket. Then move up to something a little more complicated. There are some very basic patterns out there for dresses, skirts, lounge pants, etc. Yes, it may be a tad more expensive to buy the fabric and sew it yourself, but you're learning a skill AND you get to pick your fabric and make it just how you want it.
Most of my clothes sewing is for our reenactment hobby. Most of the patterns I own are for that also. This is one area it is almost always less expensive to sew your own than to buy pre-made outfits. And I guess if the world ends and clothes get hard to find, we can always dress colonial. ;)
So give it some thought. Pick up some needles and thread, borrow a machine from a friend, maybe get some advice from a mentor and try your hand at sewing something. :)
I pick up fabric at fabric store sales, online, and from thrift stores and yard sales. Because we do reenacting and make clothes for that, I try to stick to stocking fabric made from natural fibers--cotton, linen, silk, wool. I stay away from polyester, rayon, etc. One reason to stick to natural fibers besides being able to use them for our reenactment sewing is that if you're cooking over a fire and your clothes catch a spark, they won't melt and stick to your skin. If you're a welder, you know what I'm talking about.
Sewing would be an invaluable skill in a TEOTWAWKI situation. But it also could come in handy now. Because I can sew, I've been able to make my own curtains, cute pillowcases, and custom fit clothes for reenacting. I repair sweet husband's work jeans so he can keep working in them and snug up hand-me-down pants to fit my skinny kids. I've made my own maternity Wrangler jeans, Halloween costumes, and cute, modest skirts and dresses for my girls. Our sewing machine has paid for itself many times over.
Right now, it's generally cheaper and easier to just buy clothes from the store rather than buy fabric and make your own clothes. That is, unless you're looking for something in a particular color or style that isn't "in" this season. If you want to learn to sew, I'd suggest starting with a small project with straight edges--curtains or a pillowcase. Maybe a hotpad. If you don't have access to a sewing machine or want some hand stitching practice, hand stitch a patch on some old jeans or some embellishment on a handbag or jacket. Then move up to something a little more complicated. There are some very basic patterns out there for dresses, skirts, lounge pants, etc. Yes, it may be a tad more expensive to buy the fabric and sew it yourself, but you're learning a skill AND you get to pick your fabric and make it just how you want it.
Most of my clothes sewing is for our reenactment hobby. Most of the patterns I own are for that also. This is one area it is almost always less expensive to sew your own than to buy pre-made outfits. And I guess if the world ends and clothes get hard to find, we can always dress colonial. ;)
So give it some thought. Pick up some needles and thread, borrow a machine from a friend, maybe get some advice from a mentor and try your hand at sewing something. :)
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sewing
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Happy Independence Day!
We're headed up to play colonial people at the 1776 Village for the next couple of days. I've been sewing cute stuff to outfit the kids this week (they never do stop growing). No, sweet husband won't be wearing breeches. He'll be the drink run guy in normal clothes instead. I'll definitely have to get pictures of the cute kids anyway. Son's waistcoat looks quite Benjamin Franklin-ish. Hope you have a fantastic weekend and do something patriotic--watch a parade, light off some fireworks, go shoot a gun, have a barbeque, read the Declaration of Independence, you get the idea. And let the kids know why we celebrate Independence Day.
Be back to posting next week! :)
Be back to posting next week! :)
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